Hartsell Pool
Renovations
Hartsell Pool Renovations
Hartsell Pool
Renovations
SWIMMING POOL CARE MADE EASY
Take
care
of
your
pool
and
it
will
provide
you
with
enjoyable
swimming
year
after
year.
If
you
follow
the
basics
of
proper
chemical
treatment
and
filtration,pool
care
will
be
simple
and easy to follow.
This
section
will
guide
you
through
the
steps
you
should
take
from
pool
start-up,to
in-
season
care,
to
winter
protection.
It
even
covers
important
tips
on
safetyaround
your
pool
and contains a handy trouble-shooting guide.
SIZING YOUR POOL
You
must
know
the
amount
of
water
that
your
pool
holds
in
order
to
know
how
much
chemical
to
use.
Here
is
a
simple
chart
to
figure
out
your
pool
volume.
All
measurements
should be taken in feet.
ROUND:
Diameter x Diameter x Average Depth x 5.9 = Gallons
RECTANGLE:
Length x Width x Average Depth x 7.5 = Gallons
OVAL:
Long Dia. x Short Dia. x Average Depth x 5.9 Gallons
For all other pools ask your builder, retailer, or serviceman for help.
FILTER SYSTEMS
There
are
three
basic
filter
types:
diatomaceous
earth
(DE),
sand,
and
cartridge.
Even
though
each
pool
may
have
its
own
unique
plumbing
design,
all
filter
systems
will
perform
the
same
job.
Pool
water
is
drawn
through
a
skimmer
or
a
drain
and
pumped
through
a
filter
which
removes
dirt,
algae
and
visible
contaminants
that
enter
the
pool.
You
must
operate
the
filter
system
at
least
eight
hours
per
day
in
order
to
remove
wastes
effectively.
Remember,
by
filtering
properly
you
will
help
avoid
contaminant
build-up
and
save
on
chemical
costs!
You
can
protect
your
filter
system
by
adding
the
correct
amount
of
sand
or
DE
and
cleaning
your
filter
regularly
with
a
FILTER
CLEANER
to
remove
oils
and
other
organics
like
lint
or
hair
that
may
lodge
in
your
filter.
Occasionally
you
may
need
to
apply a CLARIFIER to help your filter trap minute particles that may be passing through the system.
WATER BALANCE
Your
pool
is
designed
to
hold
the
same
water
for
many
years.
You
filter
it
and
chemically
treat
it
over
and
over
again.
During
this
period
of
time
the
water
can
drift
out
of
balance
and
cause
corrosion,
scaling
or
even
stains
to
appear.
You
can
easily
prevent
these
problems
by
paying
attention
to
the
basics
of
water
balance.
A
good
quality
test
kit
will
measure
the
key
components
of
water
balance--pH,
Total
Alkalinity,
and
Acid
or
Alkali
Demand.
Use
your
kit
often
until
you
become
familiar
with
your
pool
and
supplement
your
tests
by
having
your
professional
pool
dealer
perform
detailed
tests
on
occasion
to
verify
your
readings
and
spot
trends that could lead to potential problems.
pH
Measures
the
acidity
or
alkalinity
of
pool
water
on
a
scale
of
"0-
14".
Extreme
acid
is
"0"
and
extreme
alkali
is
"14".
The
proper
pH
range
is
7.2-7.8.
pH
readings
greater
than
7.8
will
lead
to
cloudy
water
and
scaling
on
all
pool
surfaces,
inefficient
sanitizing,
and
swimmer
discomfort.
pH
readings
less
than
7.2
will
lead
to
corrosion
of
metal
parts
such
as
heaters
and
ladders,
wrinkled
vinyl
liners,
etched
plaster,
and
swimmer
discomfort.
You
can
easily
maintain
proper
pH
by
using
pH
DECREASER
or
pH
INCREASER
when
needed according to label directions.
TOTAL ALKALINITY
Measures
the
level
of
certain
minerals
that
help
control
the
pH
of
your
pool
water.
The
proper
range
of
Total
Alkalinity
is
between
80-150
ppm
(parts
per
million).
Low
Total
Alkalinity
allows
the
pH
to
fluctuate
or
"bounce"
in
either
direction
and
can
make
it
difficult
for
you
to
keep
the
pH
stable.
For
that
reason
another
name
for
Total
Alkalinity
is
"pH
Stabilizer".
Raise
Total
Alkalinity
by
using
TOTAL
ALKALINITY
"INCREASER"
according
to
label
directions.
High
Total
Alkalinity
locks
in
the
pH,
but
usually
at
pH
levels
above
7.8.
This
condition
needs
to
be
corrected
with
pH
DECREASER
or
muriatic
acid.
Vinyl,
painted
and
fiberglass
pools
usually
require
somewhat
higher
Total
Alkalinity
levels
than
plaster
pools
and
you
should
consult
your
professional
pool
store
or
serviceman for more details.
HARDNESS
Measures
the
level
of
calcium
and
magnesium
minerals
present
in
your
pool
water.
These
minerals
exist
naturally
in
all
water
but
the
levels
vary
greatly
from
one
part
of
the
country
to
another.
"Soft
water"
typically
contains
50
ppm
Hardness
or
less
while
"hard
water"
may
contain
300
ppm
Hardness
or
more.
The
proper
range
for
plaster
pools
is
175-300
ppm
Hardness
and
for
vinyl,
painted
or
fiberglass
pools
the
proper
range
is
125-250
ppm
Hardness.
Pool
water
low
in
Hardness
causes
etching
of
plaster
and
corrosion
of
pool
surfaces.
Raise
Hardness
by
adding
CALCIUM
HARDNESS
INCREASER
according
to
label
directions.
Pool
water
high
in
Hardness
causes
cloudiness
and
scaling
to
occur.
Control
these
symptoms
by
using
SCALE
OR
STAIN
REMOVER
according
to
label
directions or drain a portion of the water and refill with water low in Hardness to dilute the mineral level.
MINERAL CONTROL
Is
an
important
concern
for
pool
owners
who
use
well
water
or
for
pools
that
contain
copper
plumbing
such
as
heaters.
Both
conditions
can
yield
trace
levels
iron,
copper
or
even
manganese
that
can
cause
water
discoloration
and
staining.
Such
discoloration
can
appear
green,
blue,
brown
or
even
black
in
color.
This
is
caused
by
the
reaction
between
your
sanitizer
and
the
particular
trace
minerals
in
your
pool
water.
You
can
prevent
the
problem
by
having
your
pool
water
professionally
tested
for
these
minerals
when
your
pool
is
being
filled
or
at
any
time
during
the
season.
If
staining
minerals
are
present
apply
SCALE
OR
STAIN
REMOVER
as
soon
as
possible
according
to
label
directions.
Re-apply
the
treatment
if
necessary
and
consult
with
your
professional
pool dealer or serviceman for more information.
STABILIZER
Refers
to
"chlorine
stabilizer",
the
final
part
of
pool
water
balance.
This
is
a
chemical
that
prevents
the
ultra-violet
rays
(UV)
of
sunlight
from
prematurely
breaking
down
your
sanitizer
level
so
that
it
can
do
it's
job
sanitizing
the
pool
water.
CHLORINE
STABILIZER
will
reduce
sanitizer
consumption
by
up
to
50%
and
need
only
be
added
once
for
the
entire
life
of
the
pool
water.
Apply
CHLORINE STABILIZER according to label directions and do not backwash for at least 24 hours.
SANITIZERS
Now
that
your
pool
water
is
balanced
and
stabilized,
iris
time
to
sanitize
it
with
chlorine.
There
are
many
types
of
chlorine
and
your
professional
pool
dealer
or
serviceman
will
explain
them
all
to
you.
The
most
economical
and
convenient
choice
is
STABILIZED
CHLORINATING
TABLETS
or
STICKS.
This
type
of
chlorine
is
applied
weekly
and
is
not
affected
by
sunlight
like
HTH
or
liquid
bleach.
You
can
dispense
TABLETS
or
STICKS
by
placing
them
in
a
chlorinator,
a
floating
feeder,
or
a
skimmer
basket.
Again,
your
dealer
or
serviceman
will
guide
you
to
the
approach
that
is
best
for
your
pool.
The
EPA
(Environmental
Protection
Agency)
has
determined
that
you
must
maintain
a
level
of
1.0-1.5
ppm
of
available
chlorine
at
all
times
to
continuously
kill
bacteria,
algae
and
other
micro-
organisms
that
try
to
inhabit
your
pool.
By
using
slow
dissolving
TABLETS
or
STICKS
you
will
be
able
to
give
your
pool
24
hour
protection.
During
pool
start-up
you
may
need
extra
doses
of
chlorine
in
order
to
satisfy
the
initial
demand
of
the
water.
This
demand
could
include
contaminants
such
as
organics
and
debris
that
built
up
before
you
started
using
chlorine.
Use
your
test
kit
often
to
check
your
chlorine
level
and
adjust
your
chlorinator
or
floater
as
needed
to
increase
or
decrease
the
flow.
A
few
important
factors
affect
the
amount
of
TABLETS
or
STICKS
that
you
will
consume.
They
are:
Temperature,
Bathing
Load,
Rainfall
and
pH.
The
warmer
the
pool
water,
the
greater
the
use
of
TABLETS
or
STICKS.
In
fact,
pool
water
at
80ø-85øF
will
require
twice
the
chlorine
of
pool
water
at
60-65øF!
The
greater
the
bathing
load,
the
greater
the
use
of
TABLETS
or
STICKS.
Heavily
used
pools
increase
the
load
of
contaminants
such
as
perspiration,
mucous
and
tanning
lotions,
all
of
which
consumes
chlorine.
The
greater
the
rainfall,
the
greater
the
use
of
TABLETS
or
STICKS.
Rain
washes
airborne
contaminants
such
as
pollen
and
algae
spores
into
the
pool
and
tends
to
lower
the
pH
of
the
water
by
contributing
"acid
rain",
a
chemical
reaction
between
rain
and
air
pollution.
Finally,
low
pH
causes
chlorine
to
be
"overactive"
and
dissipate
too
quickly.
Proper
control
of
Total
Alkalinity
will
prevent
low
pH
and
save
on
chemical
costs.
If
you
prefer
to
sanitize
your
pool
water
by
hand,
STABILIZED
CHLORINATING
GRANULES
is
the
proper
choice.
These
granules
are
rapidly
and
completely
soluble
in
all
water
temperatures
and
provide
the
same
24
hour
protection
that
you
get
from TABLETS or STICKS.
SHOCK TREATMENTS
Various
contaminants
such
as
swimmer
waste,
lotions
and
oils
can
resist
normal
chlorination
and
start
to
build
up
in
the
pool
water.
This
build
up
usually
occurs
during
hot
weather
and
periods
of
heavy
bathing
when
your
filter
is
already
working
overtime.
A
weekly
SHOCK
treatment,
when
applied
according
to
label
directions,
will
oxidize
or
burn-up
these
contaminants.
A
SHOCK
quickly
raises
the
chlorine
level
to
overcome
the
contaminants
for
a
period
of
12-24
hours.
It
is
best
to
apply
SHOCK
in
early
evening
so
that
it
can
work
overnight
and
be
burned
down
to
normal
levels
the
next
day.
Be
sure
to
continue
to
run
your
filter
during
this
period of time.
ALGAECIDES
Algaecides
are
excellent
treatments
to
prevent
or
kill
algae
growth
when
used
with
chlorine.
As
a
preventative,
algaecides
act
as
an
insurance
policy
in
your
pool,
killing
algae
spores
as
they
enter
the
water.
Algae
spores
are
constantly
entering
your
pool
from
rain,
wind
and
dust
storms
and
they
multiply
rapidly
in
sunlight
and
warm
water.
Routine
chlorination
cannot,
at
times,
cope
with
the
rapid
growth
of
an
algae
"bloom",
the
visible
outburst
of
algae.
These
algae
can
appear
green,
brown,
black,
mustard
or
even
pink
in
color.
By
the
time
algae
has
bloomed
there
are
millions
of
algae
cells
in
every
gallon
of
water!
Your
professional
pool
dealer
or
serviceman
has
a
variety
of
algaecides
for
all
kinds
of
algae
and
will
recommend
the
best
choice
for
either
prevention
or
killing needs
PRODUCT LIST
STABILIZED CHLORINATING TABLETS (3" Size)
* Slow dissolving, 89% available chlorine, 7 oz. wrapped tablets,
For use in Floaters, chlorinators, or skimmers.
STABILIZED CHLORINATING TABLETS (1" Size)
* Slow dissolving, 89% available chlorine, 1/2 oz. tablets,
For use in Floaters or chlorinators.
STABILIZED CHLORINATING STICKS (2" Diameter)
* Slow dissolving, 89% available chlorine, 8 oz. sticks,
For use in Floaters, chlorinators, or skimmers.
STABILIZED CHLORINATING GRANULES .
Fast dissolving, 62% available chlorine granules,
100% soluble, For hand feeding.
BROMINATING TABLETS (1" Size) .
Slow dissolving, 61% available bromine, alternative
to chlorine, For use in brominators.
UNSTABILIZED CHLORINATING GRANULES . Fast dissolving,
65% available chlorine granules, contains calcium, For hand Feeding.
STABILIZER * Slow dissolving, 100% active granules, to
prevent sunlight From lowering available chlorine in pool water.
pH INCREASER * Fast dissolving, 100% active, to raise pH.
pH DECREASER . Fast dissolving, 95% active, to lower pH
TOTAL ALKALINITY INCREASER .
Fast dissolving, 100% active Sodium Hydrogen Carbonate,
to raise and stabilize pH.
CALCIUM HARDNESS INCREASER
* Fast dissolving, 100% active, to raise and balance calcium level.
SHOCK TREATMENT . Fast dissolving, 65% available
chlorine granules, to oxidize contaminants that build up during year.
ALGAECIDES . A variety of maximum strength algaecides,
to prevent and kill a broad range oF algae.
Check with your dealer or serviceman for details.
SPECIALTY CHEMICALS . A variety of specialties For clarifying,
stain and scale control, filter or surface cleaning.
Check with your dealer or serviceman For details.
TROUBLESHOOTING
Sometimes
even
the
most
experienced
pool
managers
run
into
problems
that
require
special
treatments.
Here
are
a
number
of
the most common problems and recommended actions.
CLOUDY WATER
Make
sure
the
filter
is
operating
properly
and
the
correct
amount
of
filter
media
has
been
used.
Adjust
the
pH,
if
necessary,
to
7.2-7.8
and
SHOCK
treat
the
water.
If
the
condition
does
not
improve
try
adding
a
CLARIFIER
or
filter
aid.
Continue
filtering
and
maintain
the
required
level
of
chlorine.
If
your
pool
water
is
"old"
and
has
a
high
level
of
dissolved
solids
(calcium,
stabilizer,
chlorides
and
other
salts)
you
may
need
to
drain
a
portion
of
the
water
and
refill
with
fresh
water.
Your
dealer
or
serviceman
can
test this for you and advise the correct action.
ALGAE
There
are
many
types
of
algae
that
can
infect
pool
water.
The
most
common
types,
floating
or
clinging
green
algae,
respond
quickly
to
a
SHOCK
treatment
and
dose
of
maximum
strength
ALGAECIDE.
Be
sure
to
adjust
the
pH,
if
necessary,
to
7.2-7.8
before
shocking
and
brush
all
pool
surfaces
to
expose
algae
hiding
in
cracks
or
wrinkles.
Apply
the
algaecide
the
next
day.
Pink
algae
and
mustard
algae
require
extra
care
because
they
both
tend
to
re-infect
pool
water
very
easily.
Treat
pink
algae
in
the
same
manner
as
already
outlined
but,
in
addition,
sanitize
all
pool
parts
that
come
in
contact
with
the
water,
such
as
the
vacuum
hose
and
head,
by
immersing
them
in
the
pool
during
the
shock
treatment.
Treat
mustard
algae
with
a
special
algaecide
designed
to
combat
this
strain.
Clinging
black
algae
that
tends
to
appear
as
dots
or
nodules
can
be
treated
by
applying
a
slow
dissolving
granular
algaecide
directly
on
the
algae
and
by
brushing
the
algae
vigorously
to
expose
it's
roots.
In
all
cases
apply
the
ALGAECIDE
directly
into
the
pool as close to the algae as possible.
COLORED WATER
Reddish
or
brownish
colored
water
is
usually
caused
by
oxidized
iron
or
manganese.
Treat
the
pool
water
with
STAIN
&
SCALE
REMOVER
to
coat
the
minerals
and
prevent
the
oxidation
process.
Greenish
or
bluish
colored
water
is
usually
caused
by
oxidized
copper.
Treat
the
condition
as
above
and
consult
with
your
dealer
or
serviceman
for
more
details.
Be
sure
not
to
confuse
green,
slimy water that indicates an algae infection with the greenish cast associated with copper.
STAINS AND SCALE
Stains
can
develop
when
colored
water
is
left
unattended
or
when
metals
such
as
coins
are
accidentally
left
in
the
pool.
Scale
is
a
crusty
build
up
on
pool
floors
and
walls
caused
by
excessive
calcium
levels
and
high
pH.
Usually
both
conditions
must
occur
for
scale
to
form.
Both
stains
and
scale
can
be
controlled
by
lowering
the
pH,
if
necessary,
and
by
using
STAIN
AND
SCALE
REMOVER
according to label directions.
Severe
conditions,
especially
in
plastered
pools,
may
require
an
"acid
wash",
a
draining
and
cleaning
performed
by
your
dealer
or
serviceman.
CHLORINE: TOO HIGH OR TOO LOW
Inability
to
hold
a
chlorine
reading
usually
indicates
lack
of
STABILIZER
in
the
water.
Have
your
water
tested
for
STABILIZER
and
add
if
necessary.
Also
be
sure
to
check
your
floater
or
chlorinator
to
insure
a
supply
of
chlorine.
Low
readings
could
signal
an
excessive
chlorine
demand
that
is
not
being
met.
In
this
case,
a
SHOCK
treatment
would
be
appropriate.
Finally,
your
testing
chemicals
(reagents)
may
be
old
and
need
to
be
replenished.
Check
with
your
dealer
or
serviceman
for
accurate
water
testing.
A
high
chlorine
reading
that
won't
dissipate
gradually
may
indicate
too
much
chlorine
is
being
added
to
the
water.
Check
your
floater
or
chlorinator
and
make
the
necessary
adjustment.
On
occasion
chloramines
(chlorine
reacted
with
swimmer
waste)
can
develop
and
cause
the
chlorine
reading
to
remain
high.
In
this
case,
a
SHOCK
treatment
corrects
the
condition
by
breaking
up
the
chloramines.
WINTER CARE
If you live in a climate that requires winterization of your pool you should follow these simple steps.
1. Have your water tested professionally and add any necessary balancers at this time.
2. Vacuum the pool thoroughly and clean the filter.
3. If you have minerals, high calcium level, or a new plaster pool add STAIN AND
SCALE CONTROL directly to the water.
4. While the pool is still circulating, SHOCK it according to label
direction and be sure to distribute the SHOCK evenly.
5. Prevent winter algae growth by adding ALGAECIDE the followingday.
6. Lower the water level if desired, plug all lines and drain water
from the equipment to prevent freeze damage.
7. Follow all equipment makers recommendations for winter care.
8. Add pool grade anti-freeze to the lines to prevent freezing.
9. Cover the pool with either a mesh or solid cover and fasten itsecurely.
Consult with your dealer or serviceman for the cover that is best foryour pool
and for more details about winter care.
SAFETY TIPS
Your pool will bring years of safe and enjoyable swimming if you follow these simple rules.
1. No running, pushing, or foolish play in or near the pool.
2. No diving in shallow or unmarked pools.
3. Children must be supervised at all times.
4. Safety fencing should be added (check local building codes).
5. Keep a first aid kit and manual, a life ring, and a pole on site at all times. Browser Fixed
Safe handling of chemicals should also be the rule.
1. Chlorine products emit powerful chlorine gas and should never be opened
indoors and when opened, avoid breathing fumes.
2. Label directions for use must be followed at all times.
3. Do not mix chemicals. A violent reaction can occur.
4. Never add water to chemicals.
5. Read all warning statements on product labels.
6. Do not take advise from others or experiment on your own.
7. Store all chemicals in a cool, dry place and keep sealed.
8. Most important of all, KEEP CHEMICALS AWAY FROM CHILDREN.
ALGAECIDES: MANY CURES
Algae
are
constantly
infecting
water
through
airborne
contact
which
is
accelerated
by
rain
and
wind.
If
algae
spores
are
killed
off as they enter the water by using repeated algaestatic or maintenance doses of algaecides, the incidents of alga
bloom are effectively eliminated. This is an "insurance policy" approach compared to the cost of treating alga bloom.
If
algae
does
bloom
(become
visible),
then
the
best
approach
is
to
adjust
the
pH=
7.2-7.8,
shock
treat
the
water
with
7-10
ppm
of
available chlorine, brush all surfaces vigorously, and follow with a killing dose ( 5x maintenance dose) of algaecide.
Continue to filter and backwash, if necessary, during the entire episode.
According
to
the
United
States
EPA
(Environmental
Protection
Agency)
all
approved
algaecides
prevent
and
kill
most
strains
of
algae. There is no rule or clear-cut order to determine which algaecide to use, so choosing algaecides is similar to
choosing medicines. Start with your favored choice and proceed from there. If algae persists, try another choice.
Here are the algaecide choices and their characteristics:
QUAT
TYPE
:
This
is
the
nickname
for
Quaternary
ammonium
chloride.
It
is
economical,
long-lasting,
non-staining
(non-metallic),
excellent
wetting
properties
(penetrates
microscopic
cracks).
Will
foam
if
overdosed.
Best
used
for
floating
green,
clinging
green
and
pink
algae.
POLYMER
TYPE
This
is
the
nickname
for
an
organic
polymer.
It
is
fairly
expensive,
very
long
lasting,
non-staining,
and
non-foaming.
Manufacturer
data
suggests
it
is
more
stable
in
the
presence
of
high
chlorine
than
"quats."
Best
used
for
black
(Dark green complex) and pink algae.
COPPER
TYPE
This
is
a
chelated
(controlled)
copper
solution.
It
is
very
economical,
very
long
lasting,
and
non
foaming.
Can
cause
blue
staining
or
"green"
hair.
Best
used
for
floating
green
and
mustard
algae.
SILVER
TYPE
.
This
is
a
silver
colloid
(controlled)
solution.
It
is
very
expensive,
short
lived
(curative
use
only),
and
non
foaming.
Can
cause
brown
staining
if
mis-handled.
Best
used
for black and mustard algae. All other approved algaecides are dilutions or blends of these four types.
ACID & BASE DEMAND CALCULATIONS
Don't
overlook
the
importance
of
performing
Base
Demand
Tests
if
your
pH
is
6.8
or
lower
and
Acid
Demand
Tests
if
your
pH
is
8.2 or higher.
Many
water
samples
are
being
reported
with
pH--
6.8
when,
in
fact,
the
true
pH
might
be
5.0-6.5!
Taking
time
to
perform
the
Base Demand Test will take the guess work out of adjusting the pH. Look at the difference:
pH Reading Amount of Product Needed to Attain pH=7.5
6.8 1.5 lbs. Sodium Carbonate per 10,000 gallons
6.5 4.5 lbs. Sodium Carbonate per 10,000 gallons
6.0 10-12 lbs. Sodium Carbonate per 10,000 gallons
If a pool owner uses 1.5 lbs. of Sodium Carbonate when 5 or 10 lbs. is actually required, the pH reading will still appear as 6.8.
Rule of thumb: For each drop of Base Demand, use one-third (1/3) lb. of Sodium Carbonate per 10,000 gallons.
The
calculation
for
Acid
Demand
reveals
a
similar
pattern
with
an
extra
complication
related
to
the
level
of
Total
Alkalinity.
This is especially true in hard water areas and with curing plastered pools. An extra amount of acid may be needed to lower
the both Total Alkalinity and pH.
pH Reading Amount of Dry Acid Needed to Attain pH= 7.5
8.2 1.5 lbs. Dry Acid per 10,000 gallons
8.5 4-5 lbs. Dry Acid per 10,000 gallons
9.0 10-12 lbs. Dry Acid per 10,000 gallons
For those who prefer Muriatic Acid, the conversion factor from Dry Acid to Muriatic Acid (Hydrochloric Acid) is:
10 lbs. of Dry Acid -- One (1) Gallon of Muriatic Acid
Because
of
the
connection
between
high
pH
and
high
Total
Alkalinity
the
following
information
should
be
considered.
The
most
common
technique
to
reduce
Total
Alkalinity
is
to
pour
Muriatic
Acid
in
a
series
of
"pockets"
in
the
deep
end
of
a
pool,
keeping
away
from
the
walls
and
floor,
if
possible.
Use
of
Muriatic
Acid
seems
to
reduce
Total
Alkalinity
with
less
impact
on
pH
than
use
of
Dry Acid.
Rule of thumb: 1 Gallon of Muriatic Acid reduces 60 ppm of Total Alkalinity in 10,000 gallons.
ALGAE: SOME STUBBORN FACTS
Algae,
algae,
algae...
green,
black,
mustard,
and
pink.
Why
do
you
use
algaecides?
When
do
you
dose?
Which
one?
How
much?
These
questions
are
asked
over
and
over
again.
It
seems
that
everyone
has
their
own
opinions
about
algae
control
and
here
are
some of the most widely held beliefs:
Algaecides
are
not
necessary
because
chlorine
kills
all.
This
may
be
true
in
theory,
but
the
chlorine
level
must
be
kept
high
at
all
times
(3
ppm
or
higher)
and
not
permitted
to
slip.
This
can
be
expensive,
irritating
to
swimmers,
will
lead
to
bleached
swimwear
and
vinyl
liners,
and
is
difficult
to
maintain.
Even
in
high
chlorine,
some
algae
"habitate"
or
become
accustomed
to
a
steady
level.
In
tropical
areas,
for
example,
black
algae
sets
"roots"
and
seals
itself
with
a
tar-like
coating
that
is
unaffected
by
high
levels
of
chlorine. Mustard algae is another algae that seems to thrive in chlorinated water.
Algaecides
are
killers
and
Algaestats
are
preventatives.
This
may
be
true
by
definition
but
one
product
does
both
jobs.
The
EPA
does
not
recognize
the
difference
between
killing
visible
algae
(Algaecide)
and
killing
invisible
algae
(Algaestat).
Invisible
algae
sounds like a contradiction but, in fact, thousands of algae are growing before they become visible in an algae bloom.
Algae
doesn't
grow
in
low
pH
water.
Not
true.
The
most
common
types
of
algae
such
as
"planktonic
blue-greens"
prefer
pH=7.4-
9.0.
but
many
types
live
in
pH--
5.0-7.0.
During
periods
of
hot
weather
and
intense
sunlight,
photosynthesis
is
at
its
peak.
As
algae
grow,
carbon
dioxide
(food
for
algae)
is
withdrawn
from
the
water
and
the
pH
drifts
upward.
It
is
most
common
to
see
a
green
pool
with a pH-- 8.0.
Algae
doesn't
grow
in
cold
water.
Temperatures
have
to
drop
to
near
freezing
before
algae
move
into
a
dormant
state.
Studies
in the Arctic Circle indicate that as long as light is present algae will grow.
Algae
can
be
filtered
out
of
water.
This
is
true
for
"colonies"
of
algae
that
are
visible
in
the
water,
but
is
not
true
for
single
ceil
algae,
for
example,
that
exist
as
small
as
0.5
micron.
Diatomaceous
earth
(DE)
filters
particles
down
to
1-3
microns,
sand
filters
particles down to 15-20 microns, cartridge filters particles down to about 20 microns. Generally, if you can see it, you can filter it.
CHELATORS & SEQUESTRANTS
The
word
CHELATE
is
derived
from
the
Greek
word
for
"claw".
In
pool
and
spa
chemistry
chelate
means
a
chemical
treatment
to
control
or
"coat"
soluble
metal
ions
and
prevent
their
oxidation
into
unwanted
colored
precipitates.
A
chelator
attaches
to
a
metal
ion like copper or iron and wraps around it like a claw.
There
are
many
types
of
chelators
available
in
the
market.
Among
the
most
widely
used
is
a
group
of
organic
acids
called
"amino
polycarboxylic
acids".
These
chemicals
are
usually
formulated
into
liquids
that
quickly
attach
to
copper
or
iron
ions
and
deactivate
them.
Please
note
that
chelators
will
not
react
with
metals
such
as
finely
divided
iron
shavings
and
they
react
very
slowly with metals that are already oxidized or precipitated.
Sequestrants
differ
from
chelators
in
the
way
they
"coat"
or
react
with
mineral
ions.
Sequestrants
generally
have
a
few
active
sites on each molecule allowing it to control two or more metal ions at a time. Because of this, sequestrants are often
more powerful as stain removers and are often sold with specific stain removal directions.
FACTS ABOUT CHELATORS & SEQUESTRANTS
Many
chelators
and
sequestrants
have
metal
ION
PREFERENCES
called
"displacements".
This
means
that
certain
metal
ions
will
be
coated
before
others.
The
usual
preference
is
iron,
then
copper,
then
manganese,
then
calcium,
then
magnesium.
There
are
chelators that favor calcium first.
The
EFFECTIVENESS
of
chelators
and
sequestrants
to
coat
undesired
metal
ions
depends
on
the
concentration
of
the
ions
to
be
chelated. For example, it is easier to control 1 ppm of copper and 1 ppm of iron in soft water (50 ppm of calcium) than
in
hard
water
(350
ppm
of
calcium).
The
presence
of
350
ppm
of
calcium
in
water,
for
example,
will
occupy
a
large
portion
of
the
chelator
intended
to
control
the
copper
and
iron.
With
this
in
mind
it
is
advisable
to
chelate
or
sequester
undesired
metal
ions
before adding calcium to the water.
The
AMOUNT
of
chelator
or
sequestrant
needed
depends
on
the
type
of
metal
ions
present.
For
example,
copper,
iron,
and
manganese
all
require
about
the
same
amount
of
chelator
whereas
calcium
requires
50%
more
chelator.
Reactions
to
control
metal
ions occur within seconds in most cases.
Chelators
and
sequestrants
are
PH
AND
OXIDIZER
sensitive.
Very
low
pH,
occurring
in
a
"pocket"
of
water
where
acid
has
been
added,
can
cause
loss
of
chelation.
Very
high
pH,
again
a
"pocket"
effect,
can
also
cause
chelation
failure
and
precipitation
of
copper
or
iron.
Because
most
chelators
and
sequestrants
are
organic
molecules,
they
are
subject
to
attack
by
high
levels
of
oxidizers
and
"wear
off'
over
time.
This
is
the
reason
that
most
product
labels
state
that
continued
additions
may
be
necessary
to
control
metals.
With
this
in
mind,
it
is
obvious
that
shock
treatments
should
not
be
performed
directly
after
chelators
or
sequestrants have been added.
TEMPERATURE
and
TDS
(Total
Dissolved
Solids)
have
slight
effects
on
chelation.
According
to
manufacturer
studies,
high
temperature and high TDS increase the amount of chelator or sequestrant needed.
METAL CONTROL TECHNIQUES
Soluble metal ions such as copper or iron can exist in water in three different forms. They are:
1) Unreacted ions. Colorless but ready to react in some manner such as oxidation.
2) Ions already reacted but not yet precipitated. Colored water but not staining.
3) Ions already reacted and precipitated. Clear water but stained surfaces.
There are four different techniques used to control metals depending on their state as shown above. The control techniques
are:
Chemical chelators or sequestrants pH control. The use of acids or alkalis
Chemical
reduction.
The
use
of
strong
anti-oxidizers
Chlorination
or
oxidationChelators
and
sequestrants
chemically
coat
ions
in
any of the three states. Effectiveness varies based on pH, sanitizer level, calcium level, depth of stain and amount of stain.
An
acid
wash
is
an
extreme
example
of
pH
control.
Strong
acid
breaks
the
bonds
of
reacted
ions
and
releases
the
ions
to
the
unreacted
state.
Strong
alkali
such
as
sodium
carbonate
can
bond
with
unreacted
ions
to
form
cloudy
precipitates
which
can
be
easily filtered or flocked and vacuumed to waste.
Chemical
reduction
is
the
opposite
of
oxidation.
It
can
be
used
effectively
to
reverse
reacted
iron
either
in
the
colored
or
precipitated states. Reduction brings the iron back to the unreacted state.
Under
certain
conditions
chlorination
or
other
forms
of
oxidation
such
as
granular
oxygen
compounds
or
ozonation,
are
used
to
produce a cloudy precipitate that is easily filtered or flocked and vacuumed to waste.
Metal Control Products
Product Type:
Chelator
Sequestrant
Reduction
Oxidation
Chlorination
Trade Name Example
Chonchelate, Metal Out
Sequest, Stain Off, Spa Demineralizer
Conquest
Demineralizer Shock II, Sho2X
Hit Hard, More Chlor
CYANURIC ACID TESTING
The
Cyanuric
Acid
(Stabilizer)
test
is
perhaps
the
most
inconsistent
water
test
performed.
Some
of
the
problems
of
reporting
and reproducing accurate Cyanuric Acid readings are:
1)
Temperature
of
the
sample.
Try
to
keep
and
test
the
water
sample
at
room
temperature.
The
colder
the
water,
the
lower
the
test resuIt.
2)
Waiting
time
before
reading.
Be
consistent
at
the
recommended
30
seconds
before
….
reading.
The
shorter
the
time
interval,
the
lower the test result.
3)
Viewing
tube
cloudiness.
Due
to
a
reaction
with
the
Cyanuric
reagent,
Viewing
,,,,
Tubes
become
cloudy
over
a
period
of
a
few
months. Be sure to rinse the Viewing Tube carefully after each use. Cloudy tubes are hard to read.
4)
Reading
higher
levels
of
Cyanuric
Acid.
The
markings
of
60,
80,
and
100
ppm
level
….
on
….
the
Viewing
Tube
are
increasingly
close
together. Only a fraction of an inch
….
separates
….
the 60 ppm mark from the 100 ppm mark. Rather than guess in this
….
higher
range,
redo
the
test
by
diluting
the
water
sample
in
half
with
tap
water
to
….
put
….
the
test
result
in
a
more
readable
range.
Then
double
your
reading
to
more
….
accurately
report
the
Cyanuric
Acid
level.
Always
dilute
the
water
sample
and
redo
….
the test when over 100 ppm.
An
interesting
problem
with
Cyanuric
Acid
results
is
that
high
levels
of
Cyanuric
Acid
notably
affects
Total
Alkalinity.
When
measuring Total Alkalinity follow this formula:
Total Alkalinity - (Cyanuric Acid level x .30) = True Total Alkalinity
THE FUNGUS (Dark Stains On Liners)
During
the
past
four
years
a
small,
but
growing
number
of
above
ground
and
in
ground
vinyl
liner
pools
have
developed
dark
colored
stains
that
do
not
respond
to
normal
chemical
treatments
such
as
shock
treatments
or
algaecides.
Nor
can
these
stains
be
brushed
off
or
scraped
off.
They
appear
to
be
caused
by
unusual
fungus
attacks.
In
many
cases
these
stains
can
be
bleached
out
for
a time ranging from one week up to two years (depending on the severity of the stain) using the following procedure:
1) Adjust the pH, if necessary, to 7.2-7.8
2) Adjust the Total Alkalinity, if necessary to 100-150 ppm
3) Turn off the filtration system and allow the water to sit.
4)
Prior
to
this
step
it
is
very
important
to
note
that
Trichloro
Granules
should
not
contact
the
vinyl
liner
for
more
than
fifteen
(15)
minutes
in
order
to
prevent
the
….
vinyl
liner
from
bleaching!
Pour
2
lbs.
of
Nuclo
QUICK
KILL
or
Ortex
TRICHLORO
GRANULAR
or
equivalent directly on the affected areas.
5) Spread the granules evenly over the stains and allow direct contact for 7-10 minutes.
Then
push
the
granular
pile
to
the
next
affected
area
with
a
wide
pool
brush.
For
stains
in
sloped
areas,
pour
granules
into
a
deep-
pocket
leaf
net
and
….
allow
the
net
to
lie
on
the
affected
area
for
7-10
minutes.
If
granules
fail
through
….
the
mesh
of
the
leaf
net,
an
alternative
approach
is
to
pour
about
1/2
lb.
of
….
granules
into
the
toe
of
nylon
panty
hose.
Nylon
hose
has
a
much
finer
mesh
….
construction.
In
any
event,
the
granules
must
not
contact
the
vinyl
liner
for
more
….
than
fifteen
(15)
minutes
in
order
to
prevent
the
vinyl
liner
from
bleaching.
Please
test
this
procedure
on
a
small
area
to
determine
your
vinyl
liner's
reactivity.
When
the
stain
removal
procedure is complete, start the filtration system and vacuum the remaining granules in the filter.
NITRIFICATION & CHLORINE DEMAND
How green is a green pool? When is a normal shock treatment the correct dose compared to a treatment 3x normal? Or 5x?
These
questions
test
the
imagination
of
anyone
who
is
asked
to
describe
a
"green
pool."
Maybe
one
should
be
asked,
"Can
you
see the shallow end bottom, the hopper, or even the deep end bottom?"
WHAT IS NITRIFICATION?
If
green
is
really
green,
it's
a
good
bet
that
nitrification
has
taken
place.
Nitrification
is
a
micro
biological
process
in
which
ammonia
(NH3)is
converted
by
oxidation
into
nitrite
(N02)
and
nitrate
(N03).
This
process
is
carried
out
by
two
bacteria
known
as
Nitrosomonas
.
But
first,
ammonia
must
be
formed.
The
sources
of
ammonia
are
quite
plentiful:
inorganic
fertilizers,
plant
protein
decay
(leaves
etc.)
and
animal
protein
decay
(bugs
etc.)
Specialized
bacteria
decompose
the
proteins
into
ammonia
in
part
of
an
ongoing
cycle
called
the
NITROGEN
CYCLE.
(see
Nitrogen
Cycle
Chart).
Nitrosomonas,
in
turn,
get
their
energy
or
"food"
from
the
newly
created
ammonia
and
carbon
dioxide,
both
present
in
the
water.
Once
nitrification
begins,
an
accelerating
cycle
develops.
The
nitrates,
once
formed,
are
great
algae
nutrients!
And
as
nitrates
accumulate,
algae
bloom
and
the
water
turns
greener
and
greener.
As
the
Nitrogen
Cycle
progresses,
more
and
more
plant
life
becomes
available
for
further
bacterial
decomposition
into
more and more ammonia.
WHAT ARE THE EFFECTS?
Nitrification
leads
to
water
conditions
that
range
from
slight
odor
to
major
algae
bloom.
These
conditions
have
been
observed
in
both
swimming
pools
and
in
municipal
waste
water
treatment
systems.
The
color
can
range
from
a
light
green
tint
to
an
emerald
or dark green, or even a black. Water clarity can range from a hazy deep end to almost solid color at a depth of a few inches.
WHAT CONDITIONS FAVOR NITRIFICATION?
The
primary
influence
is
the
level
of
ammonia
present.
And
this
level,
in
turn,
depends
on
the
level
of
decomposing
plant
and
animal
life,
and
certain
fertilizers.
A
second
factor
is
pH,
especially
in
the
range
of
pH=
7.5-8.5.
A
third
factor
is
water
temperature
in
the
range
of70-85F.
A
fourth
factor
is
periods
of
extended
darkness
(covered
pools)
followed
by
exposure
to
sunlight
(promotes
algae
growth).
Clearly
the
"worst
case
scenario"
is
a
pool
that
is
carelessly
winterized
(not
cleaned
or
vacuumed,
little
or
no
sanitizer
added),poorly
covered
(rips,
pin
holes,
too
small
etc.),
and
left
covered
late
into
the
spring
(long
incubation
and
warming
water).
WHAT CAN BE DONE?
Testing
for
Nitrification
is
too
complicated
for
a
single
test
such
as
a
nitrate
test
(being
used
by
some
pool
dealers
to
identify
the
problem).
A
nitrate
test
will
only
test
one
part
of
the
cycle.
Research
*
indicates,
for
example,
that
Nitrosomonas
bacteria
secrete
organic
compounds
that
actually
stimulate
the
growth
of
other
types
of
bacteria.
A
test
for
these
bacteria
would
be
needed
too.
Data
from
the
Metropolitan
Water
District
of
So.
Cal.
shows
5-10
ppm
of
chlorine
effective
in
controlling
mild
nitrification.
Severe cases can require 25-50 ppm of chlorine (5x shock treatment) and repeated treatments in some cases.
Hartsell Pool Renovations